Reviewing food, I’ve only used “flavourful” twice in my life, both times early in my career. I hate the word. It’s bland, generic – vanilla. Heck, even “vanilla” is a better flavour descriptor than “flavourful” because the latter describes everything yet nothing. Media colleagues tell me I’m being a linguistic snob for dismissing a perfectly valid word but I point out that it’s prone to misuse, and a convenient out for when writers can’t adequately capture the experience they’ve had upon their palates.
But I will use the word flavourful here – not to describe any specific dish, but the overall experience at Matera, the new mod Italian restaurant at Fullerton Waterboat House. Because what German Chef Bjoern Alexander has done here is to emphasise sensations – the experience in which our senses are engaged in a powerful, visceral way.
A lot about Matera is sensational. The spectacular panorama of the waters of our grand Singapore River and the greenery at the outskirts of the Civic District dominates the view out the floor-to-ceiling windows. The restaurant itself is cavernous, an impression further emphasised by its spacious layout as well as white and neutral-toned furnishings, and wooden floor. Columns give both luxuriousness as well as, in certain areas, privacy. Food is presented upon exquisite works of ceramics and glass.
And of course, this feeds into the cuisine as well. Fresh from his sojourns in two-Michelin-starred Octavium and three-starred French Laundry, Chef Bjoern brought bold innovation to proceedings, playing with techniques and Asian ingredients, and daring to go further than most with flavours. This is where I foresee some diners to be overwhelmed – some of the items in their six-course (with a few extras thrown in) menu have robust, sometimes imposing flavours. But there is artistry in all this, and Chef Bjoern applies a lot of nous in taking us in a culinary journey that sets Matera apart from other Italian fine-dining establishments.
The journey begins with playful canapés setting the tone for the evening. Their Mala-style Olives brings a fiery twist to traditional olives, a delightful clash of flavours that leaves a tingling sensation on the tongue. Meanwhile, the Fried Spicy Sour Beef Chips creates an addictive (and like “flavourful”, I don’t use the word addictive lightly) combination of heat, crunch and creaminess.
The Amuse Bouche takes the stage with a tantalising duet of flavours. The Tartlet unites the bitter-sweetness of shredded pomelo, the imposing umami of anchovies, and the earthiness of pine nuts in a harmonious bite. The Puff Pastry showcases the marriage of textures and tastes, with savoury duck sausage encased in flaky layers of pastry, amplified by the richness of egg yolk.
The appetisers are a tour de force of elegance and innovation. The Scallops unfolds as a delicate dance of textures: paper-thin slices of scallop sashimi paired with creamy buffalo burrata jelly, creating a melody of sweetness and richness. The Foie Gras is a masterpiece of complexity, marinated to perfection and balanced with Amalfi lemon jelly and zest, all harmonising with buttery brioche.
The Matera Gnocchis – truly one of the menu highlights – brings comfort and surprise, transforming beef tendon into soft, gnocchi-like morsels, adorned with parmesan, black truffle and chives oil. It is an unexpected twist on a classic, but .
The main act shines with the Smoked Red Prawn, a sensory journey of smoky, sweet and nutty notes. The prawn’s cold smoking imparts a depth of flavour that marries perfectly with prawn toast and XO sauce. The Pigeon showcases French elegance with Cantonese flair: tender grilled pigeon accented with a rich jus and the earthy allure of black truffle.
As the evening draws to a close, diners are treated to Japanese Melon delights with its refreshing pairing of limoncello jelly and tofu ice cream. The dining experience then comes to a grand ending with Matera’s dazzling Petit Fours: tangy Limoncello jelly, bold chocolate ganache with Szechuan peppercorn, sweet and sour Chinese-style pineapple tart, and the white passion fruit chocolate and caramel.
As I exited Matera after my tasting, I was reminded of “The Persistence of Memory” by Salvador Dalí’s. The iconic artwork, often referred to as the “melting clocks” painting, is known for its surreal quality. However, many people interpret the melting clocks solely as a representation of time melting away or warping, and they see the painting as a straightforward depiction of a dream-like scene. In reality, Dalí’s work often delves into deeper themes and meanings. “The Persistence of Memory” was actually inspired by Einstein’s theory of relativity and the concept of the relativity of time. The melting clocks are meant to represent the fluidity of time and the subjectivity of our perception of it. The ants on the pocket watch and the distorted, abstract forms in the background add to the sense of disorientation and the challenge to our conventional grasp of reality.
Similarly, casual diners might visit Matera and recognise a thing of beauty, without fully understanding what makes it beautiful. Because Matera is not just a restaurant – it’s a masterpiece.
Matera is at 3 Fullerton Road, #02-01/02/03 The Fullerton Waterboat House, Singapore 049215, tel: 8031 1993
